Category: Bobwhite Quail

One of my biggest challenges raising bobwhite quail is managing and improving the habitat. The ranch is located in the Central Texas Hill Country and is typical Edwards Plateau grasses, shrubs, and trees.

“Cedar” or Western Juniper trees are the most prominent invasive plant followed closely by King Ranch Bluestem.

Both of these species act to reduce the habitat suitable for bobwhite quail and my main efforts in habitat improvement are removal (and replacement with native species) of both.

“Clearing Cedar” is done using a hydraulic shear mounted on a 55 HP Mahindra tractor with a brush fork mounted on the front bucket. This allows me to cut and stack cedar trees quite easily. In fact, I can cut much much faster than I can stack. We don’t currently burn the cedar trees due to the wildfire danger.

“Killing KR Bluestem” is an ongoing, somewhat never-ending, project.

KR Bluestem is a bunch grass variety but is just too thick for bobwhite quail to navigate through. My efforts are to reduce/remove the KR Bluestem are limited to shredding, discing and replanting cover crops to kill the KRB and give the native plants a chance to sprout and grow before taken over by the KR Bluestem.

I use a 6′ Mohawk shredder and an antique drag disc to cut the KRB and then expose the roots to sunshine to kill them.  I’m only moderately successful with this approach but don’t want to use fire or chemicals. I have more time than insurance or money.

I plant cover crops to shield the bare ground after discing and to provide some forage/seeds for the bobwhite quail. Doing this work also thins the ground cover dramatically which increases the area where the bobwhite quail can survive and thrive.

I shred and disc approximately 2 acres and without a seed drill, replanting presents two problems – too much seed density & too hard on my arms.

So, in 2015 I found an antique seed drill that looked “pretty good” that I could repair/refinish and then use to plant my ground cover and forage seeds.

I’m not a mechanic, either naturally or by training. So, the fact that I successfully took this drill apart, fixed/replaced parts and then reassembled it without any parts left over was cause for a large celebration!

Here’s how I did it and what I learned.

I found this John Deere “B” model seed drill on an online used-tractor website. It appeared to be in decent condition and was located just north of Dallas. She fit and I brought her home!

I really didn’t know what I was getting into but she looked pretty clean and functional right from the start. I felt fortunate. The mechanics, gears and levers, all appeared to work properly so there would be no need for deep or complex repairs.

The adjustable seed gates/flaps were in conditions ranging from “like new” to “totally rusted out”.

The first thing I needed was a parts and maintenance manual to understand what I had and what I needed to do.

I disconnected the funnels from the seed gates for cleaning and better access. The seed tubes were old, metal-wrapped tubes and were also replaced.

Yeah, I don’t need the suicide bench so I just removed the rusty bench brackets.

I washed and scrubbed the seed bin and I’m grateful it was in good condition. If it wasn’t the seeds wouldn’t flow smoothly into the gates and out the tubes.

The gears that drive the seed feeders are located inside each wheel. Fortunately, they were in good condition as well!

Gibbs is the best! If it’s stuck, Gibbs will get it!

Add a power washer and you can actually see the Zirk!

Again, I was very fortunate. The tension springs and guide bars for the seed “inserters” were all in good condition. There were 2 small homemade repairs that were still working just fine.

The feed rate adjustment handle and mechanism was and remains a bit stiff. It is so deeply embedded in the gears and seed gates that it wasn’t worth it to remove/repair just so that it slides a bit easier. Those are estimates stamped on there and I still had to calibrate it.

Testing the seed flaps and feeders. This is one of the best ones and worked just fine!

So, with everything in generally good condition, my focus will be on fixing the seed gates. This one has rusted out completed.

Prototype seed gate from cheap, thin aluminum. It only has to work good enough and stop the leakage from rusted original gates so an “appliance” that fits over the rusted gate should work, right?

My fancy 3 Dim drawing so I can get them made from heavier metal and bent accurately. www.Shimshack.com is where I went to get them built.

And, here they are!

Since each gate was rusted differently, they didn’t all fit the same. So, I custom fitted and drilled each one specific to a unique seed gate.

The acreage measure is driven off the drive bar that drives the seed gears and was dirty and rusty.  Easy to remove though, with a couple cotter pins.

A little Gibbs, a wire brush and some elbow grease and she’s as good as new!

Having the part manual and exploded diagram really helped me understand how things worked and order the correct replacement parts.

Testing the new seed tubes flowing into the planting foot and discs.

The discs were shot – completely worn out and probably the originals. I suspect that North Texas Red Dirt is tough on equipment.

Once again, the parts manual and diagrams really helped a lot.

Good Lord! Parts have arrived!

Somebody mistreated the hitch attachment point and it needs replacing.

And each disc needs the cleaner replaced. There are both right handed and left handed versions. I know because I ordered wrong the first time!

I originally suspected that finding replacment drag chains would be hard.  It wasn’t. They get lost easily though….

New disc Vs Old disc – lots of wear!

The mounting point for the disc.

I could have sworn that I got the wrong size disc. I had a tough time getting it to fit but it finally did.

As a point of reference, this is the disc I currently use. I call her The Beast!

Almost reassembled with new parts.

Final testing in the yard before heading to the fields.

Clean those Zirks because she’s gonna need clean grease!

Calibrating the seed feed rate. This worked like a charm! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=42NlD_jtLj0

Loaded up like the Clampetts going to Beverly Hills!

Unloading at the ranch.

Dad giving her the first pull while I watch her behind!

My buddy Jeff, giving the seed feed a detailed inspection.

I use the seed drill twice yearly for fall cover crop and spring seed crop. She works like a charm and is 10x better than hand scattering seeds.

In hindsight, I was very lucky that she was in good condition and the only repairs I needed could be done with my limited metal repair skills. I hope my story help you and your seed drill restores as nicely as mine.

Bobwhite quail don’t usually need supplemental water. In fact, they satisfy most of their water needs from dew and metabolic water. That said, many desert quail do benefit from rainwater collection systems in the wild.

But, bobwhite quail in a surrogator do need water.  And, in the hot TX summer, they drink a lot! Most recently, 120 bobwhite quail drank 75 gallons of water of a 6 week period in July – September 2018.

Since the water tank on the Surrogator only holds 15 gallons, you will need to regularly refill that tank. And, since the Surrogator is best located in a pasture under a tree, the likelihood that you’ve got a hose bib or spigot is almost zero.

A simple rainwater collection system and a small water pump seem to be an ideal solution to carrying water long distances.

I repurposed an old wildlife waterer that had a small 4′ x 4′ collection roof and a 250-gallon tank. I’ve built and used smaller configurations but find that this size almost guarantees I’ll have enough water for the entire summer.

We had a few dry years and expanding the collection surface proved to be very easy.

And then we went and added another just because we could.

In the offseason, I attach a float controlled waterer from Tractor Supply and return the rainwater collector to its original purpose – watering the wildlife!

 

Quail are messy, stinky birds. Your Surrogator is going to need cleaning regularly. The instructions say to power wash it after every cycle. I used to do that but transporting and resetting it every cycle was a PITA. Now, I only clean the Surrogator once yearly after the season.

Your bobwhite quail are going to leave a big pile of poop under your Surrogator. They are also going to make a big mess of the inside of your surrogator.

Fortunately, the Surrogator XL fits nicely into the back of a pickup. A helper is very helpful.

I use a small, cheap power washer to clean mine and it works fine.

It will inevitably pit and rust so use caution with the power washer to avoid washing off too much paint.

I use a side angle grinder with a wire wheel to remove the rust and peeling paint.

I use Rustoleum Flat Black Heavy Duty paint to cover the bare spots after washing and buffing with the wire wheel to protect the bare metal.

I also check, tighten and replace any missing screws to prevent unauthorized entry by varmints and critters.

I’ve used my Surrogator for 8 years and can foresee using for another 20 years. It is very well built and if you take reasonable care of it, it should last for many years!